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Here’s the Scoop!

叶霖耘 Lerra Ye 2018-07-06 09:34

when summer is nally here with its stifling heat, it’s too bad that most of us are have to be trapped in the city and away from a sandy beach somewhere. But here’s the magic spell to beat the heat - “Ice- cream!” Cry out so genuinely, it was like something squeezed out from your intuition. From the humble soft serve to a mind-boggling array of avours and combinations; Shanghai is in love with ice-cream. But beside physiological satisfac-tion, some novelty is an lovely extra to refresh your mind. And the mania going for it has now been dubbed as ‘celeb food’ craze by the social media. But it makes sense somehow. Since now that you’re determined for something cool, why not go for something cooler?


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PRÉE

While many ice cream stores are still promoting themselves for importing ingredients from Italy, creative minds are already pushing the boundaries to tap more possibilities out of individual ice-cream brands’ future. They not only stick to a ne-dining standard of ingredient selecting and cooking techniques, but also demystify the Michelin espoused avant-garde experimental spirit and bring them into the light. Prée, one of the leading examples of this spirit, is successful for being swamped at its venue every single day, with customers gushing praises for the shop’s unique premium ice- cream selections. Whether it’s the rare ingredients beloved by French cuisine such as truffle, foie gras, and caviar, or the American popular cock- tail recipe composing of bourbon and cherries, or classic Thai combination of lemongrass, ginger and coconut cream, or popular milk tea-mate as Japanese Matcha and South Korean Genmai, Prée dares to try them all.


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KISS THE TIRAMISU

A love affair with food starts with the eyes. If it’s beautiful to look out, we’ll savour it more when we come to taste it. And the rst one who shifted desserts from plate to goblets must have a thorough understanding on this well enough to have the layered beauty of desserts intriguingly presented at the diners' eye level. And Kiss the Tiramisu certainly has also taken this to heart. As a recent rising star of Shanghai's local ice-cream scene, Kiss the Tiramisu proudly serves very pretty multi-lay- ered tiramisu ice-cream. The custard of a classic tiramisu is replaced with slightly salty milk avoured soft serve ice-cream, while the marscarpone is separately set aside on the cup wall. With a perfect swirl being kept in a very American way above and scattering scraps of chocolate and cocoa powder to top it all off, this gorgeous fusion is sure to be a rm favourite. And not to mention that these are all served in a disposable gilded goblet that you can take away to show off.


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Editor's Words

I'd rather suggest consid- ering whether it's worth giving a de-tour than simply recommending - if you're mainly going for a posting shot. Because the stabilizer-free ice-cream swiftly melts within 5 minutes. But for the taste, it's kind of good though.


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I have no doubt that the ne dining pros are still playing their pioneering role in the game when a fresh fusion treat at Hakkasan caught my attention. Created by their executive head chef Tong Chee Hwee, who has an earlier culinary experience in Malaysia and Singapore, this Italian semi- freddo, known as 'BingGao' to the old Shanghainese up- per class since the French chefs brought it there almost a century ago, has a denser texture but still light enough to hit you with a hint of tropical delight. And the secret of its innovative twist is crushed meringue added to the coconut cream base, which I believe was inspire by Sangkaya, the Malaysian style of coconut ice-cream.


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Itim Kati

Thais have their Itim Kati in a husk. Some coconut esh and a topping of sticky rice and peanuts is bound to assure it as the best selling treat through all summer.


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Sorbetes

The Filipinos also use coco- nut milk and cream instead of cream and yolks to make their sorbetes. But some locals prefer to sandwich it in between bread.


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Coconut ice-cream

Restaurants in Shanghai turn coconut ice-cream's refresh- ing avour to a rich base mixed with coconut shreds, and they like to embellish with a little whipped cream.


EDITOR'SWORDS

Among all the facts to judge the quality, nothing compares to freshness. Just like common dishes, its avours change dramatically over time. You surely wouldn’t prefer a canned coffee when you can get a freshly brewed one. Agreed?


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LOADS OF AIR

Research has found that the cheaper the ice-cream you buy at the freezer, the more air you would get in your bucket due to cost cut- ting measures. Good ice- cream melts in your mouth, without any chewing or ice crystals to grind your teeth on. It’s supposed to be as delicate as natural yoghurt, nothing like that milk foam on your latte.


TOO MUCH SUGAR

Be alarmed if your ice- cream gets overly sweet! It could have been a clue of inferior ingredients being used to make your scoop. Who knows what else is in there!


GRANULAR TEXTURE

Some may love to chew ice chips in shaved ice. But good quality ice-cream would rather spare a great deal of bene ts on superpower processors to minimize the size of ice crystal, so that you can enjoy that taste of exquisite creaminess.


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Bonus

Gelato is something not to be missed when speaking of ice- cream. To many, it’s just another fancy name. But no, it’s not. Rep- resenting high quality, gelato has a higher proportion of milk, must be freshly made, and churned by hand at a much slower rate, presenting smoother and intenser texture. Thus, it's hard for Shanghai to have authentic Gela- terias sticking to this standard. But urbanites are getting pickier. And this is giving Bonus, the “ flash mob” gelateria a chance to bring down the house, for that their daring spirit leave us with highlights of amazingly localized avours to choose from. LingAn small walnut is a legendary example loved by all.

Gelato from Italy, soft serve from United States, Bingsu from Korea, sorbetto from the Middle-East... the selection
is endless. As such, brands have reacted to the wide array with museum-like “global” ice-cream shops providing hundreds of choices to cater to everyone’s tricky and specific preferences. However, if you’ve been carefully watching the business, it’s easy to nd out that the hottest frozen treats are not among the purebreds, but of transnational hybrids ideas. And what’s surprising is that I see fewer people caring about how the prevailing ideas were born. Soon as their taste buds are satisfied, the remaining curiosity shall be all fine to leave behind.


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